The Wien (Vienna) Wine Region: A Comprehensive Guide

1. Overview & History

Geographic Location in Austria

The Wien wine region occupies a truly unique position in the world of wine, it is the only capital city globally with significant viticulture practiced within its municipal boundaries. Located in the northeastern corner of Austria, the region encompasses approximately 700 hectares of vineyards spread across the city's northern, western, and southern districts. The vineyards stretch from the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald) in the west to the Danube River in the north, with notable concentrations in districts such as Döbling, Floridsdorf, and Liesing.

Wien sits at the intersection of three distinct geographical influences: the Alpine foothills to the west, the Pannonian Plain to the east, and the Carpathian influence from the northeast. This positioning at roughly 48°N latitude places it among Europe's more northerly wine regions, yet its continental climate with eastern warmth allows for reliable ripening conditions.

Historical Significance and Development

Vienna's winemaking heritage extends back over two millennia to Roman settlement, when Vindobona (Roman Vienna) cultivated vines along the Danube. However, it was during the medieval period that viticulture became central to the city's identity. By the 13th century, wine production had become so integral to Vienna's economy that vineyards covered nearly 10,000 hectares, far exceeding today's plantings.

The Habsburg monarchy elevated Vienna's wine culture to international prominence. Emperor Joseph II's 1784 decree allowing vintners to sell their own wine directly from their premises created the beloved Heuriger tradition, rustic wine taverns where producers serve their new vintage alongside cold buffets. This institution remains a defining cultural feature of Viennese wine.

The 19th century brought both prosperity and crisis. While Vienna's wines gained fame throughout the empire, phylloxera devastated the vineyards in the 1870s-1890s. Urban expansion in the 20th century further reduced vineyard area dramatically. Yet Vienna's wine community persevered, and recent decades have witnessed a remarkable quality renaissance. The establishment of the Wien DAC in 2013 and the classification of Erste Lage vineyards in 2019 marked Vienna's emergence as a serious fine wine region, not merely a charming curiosity.

Climate and General Terroir Characteristics

Wien experiences a transitional continental climate moderated by multiple influences. The Vienna Woods provide shelter from excessive western weather systems, while the Pannonian Plain to the east contributes warm, dry conditions during the growing season. The Danube River creates mesoclimates with moderating effects on temperature extremes.

Average annual temperatures hover around 10.4°C (50.7°F), with warm summers (July averaging 20°C/68°F) and cold winters. The growing season benefits from approximately 1,800 hours of sunshine annually. Precipitation averages 600-650mm per year, with strategic rainfall distribution, drier summers reduce disease pressure while autumn rains are generally moderate, allowing extended hang time.

The region's elevation ranges from 160 to 400 meters above sea level, with most premium vineyards situated on slopes between 200-350 meters. These elevations provide crucial diurnal temperature variation, with cool nighttime temperatures preserving acidity while warm days develop phenolic ripeness. This balance defines the characteristic tension and freshness of Wien's wines, they combine ripeness and structure with remarkable lift and energy.

2. Grape Varieties

Primary Grape Varieties

Grüner Veltliner dominates Wien's vineyards, accounting for approximately 30% of plantings. The region's expressions showcase the variety's versatility, from fresh, peppery Heuriger wines to age-worthy, complex bottlings from classified sites. Wien's Grüner Veltliner typically displays white pepper, citrus, and green apple notes with a distinctive saline minerality derived from limestone soils. The best examples balance generous fruit with taut structure and considerable aging potential.

Riesling represents roughly 8-10% of plantings but produces some of Wien's most profound wines. The region's Riesling tends toward an elegant, refined style, neither as opulent as Wachau examples nor as austere as some German expressions. Expect precise citrus and stone fruit flavors, pronounced minerality, and crystalline acidity. The limestone-rich sites, particularly on the Nussberg, yield Rieslings with striking tension and complexity.

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) has gained significant importance, comprising about 12% of plantings. Wien's Weissburgunder ranges from fresh, orchard-fruited everyday wines to substantial, barrel-fermented expressions with remarkable depth and aging capacity. The variety thrives on the region's sedimentary soils, producing wines with apple, pear, and almond notes supported by creamy texture and mineral backbone.

Chardonnay occupies approximately 7% of vineyards and produces elegant, restrained wines that eschew overt oaky character in favor of precision and site expression. Wien's Chardonnay typically shows citrus, white flowers, and subtle stone fruit with vibrant acidity and mineral definition.

Regional Specialties and Clones

Gemischter Satz stands as Wien's signature specialty, indeed, the only wine style that can carry the Wien DAC designation without varietal specification. This traditional field blend involves co-planting and co-fermenting at least three grape varieties, with no single variety exceeding 50% and the third variety comprising at least 10% of the blend.

Historically, Gemischter Satz served practical purposes: blending varieties with different ripening times, disease resistance, and characteristics provided insurance against vintage variation and created balanced wines naturally. While this practice declined elsewhere, Wien preserved and elevated it. Modern Gemischter Satz from quality-focused producers reveals remarkable complexity, layered aromatics, textural depth, and distinctive site character that single varieties might not capture.

Common components include Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Welschriesling, Neuburger, and Traminer, though old vineyards may contain a dozen or more varieties. Each producer's field blend reflects their specific site's historical plantings and their winemaking philosophy.

Red varieties occupy about 15% of Wien's vineyards, with Zweigelt leading, followed by Pinot Noir and St. Laurent. While whites dominate Wien's reputation, some producers craft serious reds, particularly from warmer sites in the south.

Winemaking Styles

Wien's winemaking philosophy has evolved significantly. Traditional Heuriger production emphasized fresh, light wines for immediate consumption: the "drinking wine" culture that sustained Vienna's wine taverns. These wines, bottled young and served from large casks, prioritized drinkability and charm over complexity.

Contemporary Wien winemaking embraces quality and terroir expression while honoring tradition. Leading producers employ various approaches: spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, extended lees aging for texture and complexity, minimal intervention to preserve site character, and judicious oak usage (typically large format, neutral vessels) for top-tier wines.

The Wien DAC system codifies three quality levels with corresponding styles: Gebietswein (regional wine) emphasizes fresh, accessible character; Ortswein (village wine) shows more concentration and complexity; and Riedenwein (vineyard-designated wine from classified sites) demands the highest standards, fuller-bodied wines with aging potential and distinct terroir signatures.

3. Terroir & Geology

Soil Types and Their Distribution

Wien's geological diversity creates distinct terroir profiles across the region. The subsoils primarily consist of sedimentary deposits from ancient seas that covered the area millions of years ago, overlaid with various topsoil compositions.

Limestone and calcareous marl dominate the premium vineyard sites, particularly along the slopes of the Vienna Woods and the Nussberg. These alkaline soils, formed from marine sediments of the ancient Tethys Ocean, provide excellent drainage while retaining sufficient moisture. They impart distinctive mineral tension and elegant structure to wines, especially Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. The limestone's reflective properties also enhance sunlight exposure and heat retention.

Flysch formations (alternating layers of sandstone, marl, and clay) appear in several premier sites. These complex, stratified soils create wines with remarkable depth and textural complexity, as vine roots penetrate different layers accessing varied mineral compositions and water sources.

Loess deposits, wind-blown sediments from the last Ice Age, cover portions of the Bisamberg and southern areas. These fertile, porous soils warm quickly in spring and retain warmth, promoting earlier ripening. Loess contributes generosity and aromatic expressiveness to wines while maintaining good acidity due to mineral content.

Sandy gravel and alluvial deposits characterize sites near the Danube and in lower-lying areas. These well-draining soils produce lighter, more aromatic wines suited to early consumption, though they can yield surprising complexity when yields are managed carefully.

Conglomerate (Nagelfluh) appears in specific sites, particularly in western areas. This mixture of rounded pebbles cemented in a matrix of sand and clay provides drainage while the varied rock types contribute complex mineral elements to wines.

Topography and Vineyard Sites

Wien's vineyard topography varies considerably, creating diverse mesoclimates and exposures. The most prestigious sites occupy slopes ranging from gentle inclines to steep hillsides approaching 40-50% gradient.

The Nussberg, rising north of the Danube Canal, represents Wien's most celebrated vineyard area. Its south-southeast facing slopes capture optimal sun exposure while cooling breezes from the Danube moderate temperatures. Elevations ranging from 220 to 330 meters provide ideal conditions for Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, with steep gradients ensuring excellent drainage and concentrated fruit.

The Bisamberg, a isolated hill north of the Danube, offers varied exposures and microclimates across its slopes. Its elevation (up to 358 meters) and exposure to cooling northern influences create wines with pronounced acidity and aromatic lift.

Western districts near the Vienna Woods benefit from elevation (often 280-400 meters) and protection from the wooded slopes. These sites experience cooler temperatures and greater diurnal variation, producing wines with elegance and tension.

Southern vineyards in Liesing and Mauer occupy warmer, more Pannonian-influenced sites, where red varieties perform better and white wines show riper, more generous profiles.

How Terroir Influences Wine Styles

Wien's terroir diversity enables remarkable stylistic range. Limestone sites produce wines of crystalline precision, taut, mineral-driven, with pronounced acidity and aging potential. The Nussberg's Rieslings exemplify this: laser-focused citrus and stone fruit with chalky minerality and decades-long development potential.

Flysch formations yield wines combining power with finesse, fuller-bodied with layered complexity, creamy texture, and persistent mineral backbone. Gemischter Satz from flysch sites often shows exceptional depth and harmony.

Loess-based wines offer immediate accessibility, generous fruit, aromatic expressiveness, and softer texture, though the best examples maintain freshness and can age gracefully.

The interplay of elevation, exposure, and soil type creates site-specific signatures. South-facing limestone slopes at 280-320 meters represent the "sweet spot" for many producers, sufficient ripeness with retained acidity, power with elegance, immediate appeal with aging potential.

4. Classification System

DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) Regulations

The Wien DAC, established in 2013, created Austria's first urban appellation and codified quality standards for the region. Unlike some Austrian DACs that focus on a single variety, Wien DAC embraces both single varieties and the region's Gemischter Satz tradition.

Eligible Varieties for Wien DAC:

• Gemischter Satz (field blend meeting specific criteria)
• Grüner Veltliner
• Riesling
• Weissburgunder
• Other white varieties (under specific conditions)

Quality Pyramid:

Gebietswein (Regional Wine) represents the entry level, wines must be dry (maximum 6 g/l residual sugar), showcase varietal character, and display Wien's fresh, accessible style. Minimum alcohol: 11.5%. These wines emphasize drinkability and immediate appeal, often served in Heurigen.

Ortswein (Village Wine) requires grapes from a single district (Bezirk) within Vienna. Wines must show greater concentration and complexity than Gebietswein. Minimum alcohol: 12%. These wines bridge everyday drinking and serious wine, offering enhanced structure while maintaining accessibility.

Riedenwein (Vineyard Wine) comes exclusively from classified Erste Lage vineyards. These top-tier wines must demonstrate distinctive site character, concentration, and aging potential. Minimum alcohol: 12.5%. Riedenwein cannot be released before March 1st following harvest, ensuring some development. These represent Wien's finest expressions, complex, structured wines that rival Austria's most prestigious bottlings.

Gemischter Satz Wien DAC carries specific requirements:

• Minimum three grape varieties
• No variety exceeding 50%
• Third-most planted variety comprising at least 10%
• Grapes from a single vineyard or district
• Harvest, press, and vinify together

Erste Lage (First Growth) Classification

In 2019, Wien established its Erste Lage classification, designating premier vineyard sites analogous to Burgundy's Premiers Crus. This historic classification recognizes sites with proven quality over decades and distinctive terroir characteristics.

The classification identified 12 Erste Lage vineyards across Wien (note: some sources list variations in the exact number as the system continues evolving, but 12 represents the primary classified sites at establishment).

Erste Lage Requirements:

• Strict yield limitations (maximum 6,750 liters per hectare)
• Hand harvesting mandatory
• Higher minimum must weights
• Wines must express distinctive site character
• Prolonged aging requirements before release

The Erste Lage designation appears on labels alongside the specific vineyard name, signaling consumers that the wine represents Wien's highest quality tier.

Quality Levels and Distinctions

Beyond the DAC pyramid, producers may choose to work outside the system, labeling wines as Qualitätswein or Prädikatswein (for sweeter styles). Some producers create premium bottlings labeled as Österreichischer Qualitätswein rather than Wien DAC if their winemaking approaches (extended lees aging, botrytis styles, etc.) don't conform to DAC regulations.

The system emphasizes origin and terroir over sweetness levels or must weights, marking a philosophical shift in Austrian wine classification toward site-specific expression.

5. Notable Vineyards & Sites

Erste Lage Vineyards: The Classified Twelve

Nussberg Ried Ulm stands among Wien's most celebrated sites. Located on the Nussberg's steep southeast-facing slopes (elevations 220-280m), this classified vineyard features deep limestone and marl soils. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from Ulm display pronounced minerality, citrus precision, and remarkable aging potential, wines of crystalline purity with decades-long development.

Nussberg Ried Rosengartl occupies prime south-facing exposition at 250-310 meters elevation. Its limestone-dominated soils with flysch components produce powerful yet elegant wines. Riesling particularly excels here, showing concentrated stone fruit, white flowers, and limestone-driven minerality with vibrant acidity.

Nussberg Ried Preussen benefits from similar geology to Rosengartl but with varying slope angles creating distinct microclimates. Both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling achieve impressive concentration while maintaining the site's characteristic elegance and tension.

Bisamberg Ried Wiesthalen represents the Bisamberg's finest site, southeast-facing slopes with calcareous loess and limestone at 240-300 meters. The elevation and northern location create wines with pronounced freshness and aromatic lift. Grüner Veltliner shows classic white pepper and citrus with mineral backbone.

Bisamberg Ried Steingebirge features rockier, limestone-rich soils on steeper gradients. Wines from this site possess striking mineral definition and structural intensity, requiring time to reveal their complexity.

Mauer Ried Himmel in southern Wien occupies unique position, warmer, Pannonian-influenced climate with limestone and conglomerate soils. Both white and red varieties succeed here, with Grüner Veltliner showing riper fruit profiles balanced by mineral freshness.

Nussberg Ried Rebenhof, Nussberg Ried Neustift, Grinzing Ried Schenkenberg, Neustift am Walde Ried Oeden, Salmannsdorf Ried Lamm, and Ottakring Ried Goldberg round out the classified sites, each offering distinctive terroir expressions shaped by specific soil compositions, exposures, and mesoclimates.

Site-Specific Terroir Differences

The Nussberg sites share limestone prominence but vary in flysch content, slope angle, and elevation, creating a spectrum from taut, mineral-driven wines (Ulm) to more textural, powerful expressions (Rosengartl). Bisamberg sites show greater aromatic intensity and refreshing acidity due to northern influences and elevation. Western sites near the Vienna Woods (Lamm, Schenkenberg, Oeden) exhibit cooler-climate characteristics, precise fruit definition, elevated acidity, elegant structure. Southern sites (Himmel, Goldberg) display more generous fruit, softer texture, and earlier approachability while maintaining minerality.

Understanding these site distinctions allows consumers and professionals to appreciate Wien's terroir diversity: this isn't a monolithic region but a collection of distinct vineyard personalities.

6. Producers & Wine Styles

Leading Producers and Estates

Weingut Christ stands as Wien's largest quality-focused producer, with holdings across multiple classified sites including substantial parcels on the Nussberg. The Rathberger family has elevated Christ from a traditional Heuriger operation to a quality leader. Their single-vineyard Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings from sites like Ulm and Preussen showcase crystalline purity and aging potential, while their Gemischter Satz offerings demonstrate the style's complexity and charm.

Weingut Wieninger represents modern Wien excellence under Fritz Wieninger's direction. A pioneer of serious Gemischter Satz, Wieninger produces compelling wines from Bisamberg sites (Rosengartl, Grand Select) and other holdings. His top Gemischter Satz bottlings reveal extraordinary depth, layered, textured wines that challenge perceptions of field blends. His single-variety wines, particularly Weissburgunder and Grüner Veltliner, combine precision with generous fruit.

Weingut Cobenzl, the municipal winery owned by the City of Vienna, manages significant vineyard holdings including Erste Lage sites. Their range spans accessible Heuriger wines to serious, age-worthy bottlings from classified vineyards. As an institutional producer, Cobenzl plays an important role in promoting Wien's wines internationally.

Weingut Edlmoser produces elegant, terroir-focused wines from Nussberg and Kahlenberg sites. Michael Edlmoser's winemaking emphasizes purity and site expression, crafting Grüner Veltliner and Riesling with pronounced minerality and structural refinement.

Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz combines historic importance (Beethoven supposedly stayed here) with quality winemaking. Their holdings in Nussdorf and surrounding areas yield classic Wien wines, fresh, mineral-driven, with both immediate appeal and aging capacity. Their Heuriger remains among Vienna's most atmospheric.

Weingut Hajszan Neumann represents new-generation quality focus. This small estate produces intense, concentrated wines from Bisamberg sites, with particular success in Gemischter Satz and Grüner Veltliner. Their wines show modern precision while respecting tradition.

Zahel operates in southern Wien (Mauer), working warmer sites with different terroir profiles. Richard Zahel produces both excellent whites (particularly from Himmel) and impressive reds, showcasing Wien's stylistic diversity.

Weingut Bernreiter, Weingut Fuhrgassl-Huber, and Weingut Schilling represent additional quality producers maintaining high standards across their ranges.

Typical Wine Profiles and Characteristics

Gemischter Satz from quality producers displays remarkable complexity: layered aromatics spanning citrus, orchard fruit, herbs, and spices; creamy yet precise texture; mineral backbone; and harmonious integration of components. Entry-level versions offer charming, food-friendly drinking; Erste Lage bottlings achieve profundity rivaling fine Burgundy.

Grüner Veltliner ranges from peppery, citrus-driven Gebietswein to substantial, mineral-rich Riedenwein. Expect white pepper, green apple, citrus, and stone fruit flavors supported by pronounced acidity and saline minerality. Top examples develop extraordinary complexity with age, honeyed notes, dried herbs, savory depth.

Riesling from Wien shows elegant restraint: citrus (lime, grapefruit), white peach, and flowers with striking mineral precision and racy acidity. Neither as opulent as Wachau nor as austere as Kamptal, Wien Riesling occupies a refined middle ground emphasizing balance and terroir transparency.

Weissburgunder offers apple, pear, and almond flavors with creamy texture and mineral freshness. Premium examples show impressive weight and complexity while maintaining lift and energy.

Aging Potential and Drinking Windows

Gebietswein and Ortswein are typically best enjoyed within 1-4 years of vintage, though quality examples can age longer. These wines emphasize fresh fruit and immediate appeal.

Riedenwein from classified sites demands patience. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from Erste Lage vineyards often require 3-5 years to begin showing complexity and can age gracefully for 10-20+ years under proper storage. Gemischter Satz similarly evolves beautifully, developing tertiary complexity over 8-15 years.

Vintage variation affects aging potential, riper, more concentrated years (2015, 2017, 2022) produce wines with extended longevity; fresher, higher-acid vintages (2014, 2016, 2021) offer both early accessibility and long-term potential.

7. Food Pairing & Serving

Traditional Austrian Food Pairings

Wien's wines evolved alongside Viennese cuisine, creating natural affinities. The classic Heuriger buffet, cold cuts, cheeses, spreads, and pickled vegetables, pairs beautifully with fresh Gebietswein and simple Gemischter Satz. The wines' freshness and moderate alcohol cut through fatty meats while their fruit complements pickled and fermented elements.

Wiener Schnitzel, breaded veal cutlet with lemon, finds its ideal match in crisp Grüner Veltliner or Weissburgunder: the wines' citrus notes echo the lemon garnish while acidity cuts through fried coating. Fresh, unoaked versions work best.

Tafelspitz, boiled beef with horseradish and apple sauce, pairs superbly with more substantial Wien wines. Ortswein or Riedenwein Grüner Veltliner with the weight to match the beef's richness and structure to complement savory broth flavors.

Erdäpfelgulasch (potato goulash) and other paprika-based dishes benefit from Gemischter Satz's complexity: the blend's layered flavors and texture handle spice and umami gracefully.

Asparagus (white asparagus being a Viennese springtime obsession) demands special consideration. Grüner Veltliner's natural affinity for asparagus is legendary, with Wien's versions providing ideal balance, sufficient ripeness to complement, enough freshness to refresh.

Süße Knödel and Palatschinken (dumplings and pancakes, both sweet and savory) pair with various Wien wines depending on preparation. Savory versions love Gemischter Satz; sweeter preparations might call for off-dry styles.

Cheese pairings: Alpine cheeses (Bergkäse, Almkäse) with aged Grüner Veltliner; creamy cheeses (Brie-style) with Weissburgunder; fresh goat cheese with young Riesling.

Modern Pairing Suggestions

Wien's wines' versatility extends to contemporary cuisine:

• Sushi and sashimi: Grüner Veltliner's citrus and minerality with fresh fish; Riesling with richer preparations
• Southeast Asian cuisine: Gemischter Satz's complexity handles spice, herbs, and varied flavors in Thai and Vietnamese dishes
• Roasted poultry: Ortswein or Riedenwein Weissburgunder with roast chicken or duck
• Grilled fish: Limestone-driven Riesling with sea bass, turbot, or bream
• Vegetable-forward dishes: Gemischter Satz's layered character complements complex vegetable preparations

Serving Temperatures and Glassware

Serving temperatures significantly impact Wien wines' expression:

• Gebietswein: 8-10°C (46-50°F), cool enough for refreshment, warm enough to express aromatics
• Ortswein: 10-12°C (50-54°F), slightly warmer to reveal complexity
• Riedenwein: 12-14°C (54-57°F), especially aged examples benefit from warmer serving to showcase development and texture

Allow wines to warm gradually in the glass; starting slightly cooler is preferable to over-warming.

Glassware should support the wines' aromatic intensity and structural precision. Medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses with tapered rims concentrate aromatics without excessive volume. Riedel's Grüner Veltliner/Riesling glass works excellently for Wien's whites. Avoid overly large glasses that dissipate delicate aromatics; avoid small glasses that don't allow aeration.

Decanting benefits aged Riedenwein (5+ years) and powerful young examples from Erste Lage sites. 30-60 minutes in decanter opens tight young wines and removes any reductive notes; older wines may need only brief decanting or large-format glassware to aerate.

Vintage Variations to Consider

Classic cool vintages (2010, 2013, 2016, 2021): Wines show pronounced acidity, elegant fruit definition, mineral precision. Excellent aging potential; may seem austere young but develop beautifully.

Warm, generous vintages (2015, 2017, 2019, 2022): Riper fruit profiles, lower acidity (though still refreshing by international standards), more immediate appeal. Powerful wines with aging potential but different trajectory, developing more quickly toward tertiary complexity.

Balanced vintages (2011, 2018, 2020): Ideal ripeness with retained freshness, wines showing both generosity and structure, immediate appeal and aging capacity.

Challenging vintages (2014, cool and wet): Lower volumes, variable quality, but successes show remarkable purity and energy. These vintages reward careful producer selection.

When serving Wien wines, consider vintage character: cooler vintage wines benefit from warmer serving temperatures and aeration; warmer vintage wines from modest cooling to maintain freshness.

Conclusion

The Wien wine region represents one of viticulture's most remarkable success stories: an ancient wine culture that has reinvented itself for modern quality standards while preserving unique traditions. From Heuriger conviviality to Erste Lage profundity, Wien offers extraordinary diversity within a compact geographic area.

What distinguishes Wien is not just the novelty of urban viticulture but genuine terroir complexity and winemaking excellence. The region's classified vineyards produce wines rivaling Austria's most celebrated sites, while Gemischter Satz (Wien's signature style) demonstrates that tradition and quality coexist beautifully. The combination of limestone terroir, continental climate with moderating influences, dedicated producers, and structured classification system positions Wien among Europe's most exciting wine regions.

For wine professionals and enthusiasts, Wien offers compelling discoveries: profound single-vineyard expressions, complex field blends, and extraordinary value (many wines remain underpriced relative to quality). Whether enjoying fresh Heuriger in a rustic tavern or contemplating aged Riesling from the Nussberg, Wien's wines connect drinkers to place, tradition, and community in ways few regions can match.

As Wien continues refining its classification system and producers gain experience with Erste Lage sites, the region's reputation will undoubtedly grow. Now represents an ideal moment to discover Wien's wines, quality is exceptional, availability is increasing internationally, and prices remain accessible. This unique wine region (where city and vineyard intertwine, where tradition and innovation coexist) deserves recognition as one of Austria's, and indeed the world's, great wine regions.