Bordini MGA, Neive, Barbaresco
Introduction
Bordini is one of the officially designated menzioni geografiche aggiuntive (MGAs) in the commune of Neive, one of three principal townships that comprise the Barbaresco DOCG production zone. Introduced as part of the 2007 MGA classification system (three years before Barolo implemented its own cru delineation) these additional geographic mentions represent the formalization of Barbaresco's vineyard hierarchy. While Bordini does not appear among the most historically documented sites in Neive, it represents part of the broader expansion and refinement of Nebbiolo cultivation in this commune, which has seen dramatic growth from 140 hectares in 1995 to 265 hectares by 2019.
The historical record of individual vineyard sites in Neive is notably sparse compared to other areas of Barbaresco. Lorenzo Fantini's influential late 19th-century monograph on Piedmontese viticulature indicated "very few 'choice positions' in Barbaresco (and none whatsoever in Neive)," suggesting that the emergence of recognized crus in this commune is a relatively modern phenomenon. Neive markets itself as "the township of four wines", Moscato, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo (with Moscato historically dominating plantings. Nebbiolo's consolidation here occurred primarily after the Second World War, gaining ground at the expense of Barbera and Dolcetto as the wine's commercial value increased.
Neive Terroir Context
Understanding Bordini requires situating it within the broader terroir characteristics of Neive and Barbaresco. The commune's vineyards benefit from the same fundamental geological composition found throughout the Barbaresco zone: soils that can be roughly divided into two principal types. The calcareous clay of the Tortonian epoch dominates much of the area, very similar to soils found in the Barolo communes of La Morra and Barolo, resulting in wines with particular elegance and aromatic complexity.
The general Barbaresco production zone occupies south-facing slopes at elevations ranging from 200 to 400 meters, lower than those typical in Barolo. This positioning, combined with the influence of the Tanaro River valley, creates a marginally warmer mesoclimate that allows Nebbiolo to ripen earlier than in Barolo) typically a week to ten days ahead. These climatic advantages contribute to the character that distinguishes Barbaresco from its more powerful neighboring appellation.
The soil structure in quality Barbaresco sites generally features moderate fertility and well-regulated water supply (characteristics essential for producing wines of distinction. The calcareous clay soils common throughout the zone provide good drainage while retaining sufficient moisture to support even ripening without excessive vigor. This balanced water regime helps ensure consistent grape development throughout the growing season, a factor repeatedly emphasized in terroir studies as crucial for wine quality.
Wine Characteristics
Wines from Neive, including those from Bordini, express the fundamental characteristics of Barbaresco Nebbiolo while potentially showing the particular qualities associated with their commune. Barbaresco as a whole is often described as more approachable than Barolo, though this characterization can be misleading. While DOCG regulations require only 26 months of aging (versus Barolo's 38 months), with 9 months in wood, and 50 months total for Riserva bottlings, this shorter minimum aging requirement does not indicate lesser aging potential or structural integrity.
Barbaresco wines, despite often being considered lighter-bodied than Barolo, possess substantial tannins and acidity characteristic of the Nebbiolo grape. They must achieve a minimum alcoholic strength of 12.5% and commonly reach 13.5%. Young Barbaresco rarely offers immediate pleasure, requiring time to integrate its structural components. The classic aromatic profile features cherry, violets, roses, and with age develops notes of iron, tar, orange peel, truffles, and leather.
Contemporary Barbaresco production has witnessed a stylistic evolution. The 1970s and 1980s saw a shift toward shorter macerations and aging in French barriques, pursuing rounder, more immediately accessible wines. This approach drew criticism from traditionalists who argued that French oak suppressed Nebbiolo's delicate perfume. More recently, many producers have returned to extended maceration periods) often up to 40 days (and aging in large format oak casks (botti) rather than barriques, seeking to emphasize terroir expression and traditional character.
Recognition and Development
The official MGA system implemented in 2007 represented a significant milestone for Barbaresco, bringing formal recognition to single-vineyard designations that had been developing organically since the 1960s. The first single-vineyard Barbaresco, Prunotto's Montestefano, appeared in 1961. Subsequent decades saw négociants' willingness to pay premium prices for fruit from specific sites, gradually establishing consensus around the region's hierarchy.
In Neive specifically, certain sites gained particular recognition: Albesani and Gallina emerged as benchmarks, while Santo Stefano achieved prestige through the dedicated work and exacting standards of producers like Bruno Giacosa. However, the broader complement of Neive MGAs, including sites like Bordini, represents the continued evolution and refinement of this commune's viticultural identity) an ongoing process of discovery as producers work to understand and express the particular character of each site.
As Barbaresco continues to gain global recognition and commercial success, attention increasingly focuses on understanding the nuances that distinguish individual MGAs, even those without extensive historical documentation. Each site contributes to the complex mosaic of terroir expression that defines this exceptional winegrowing region.