Marcarini MGA, Treiso, Barbaresco

Introduction

Marcarini represents one of the lesser-documented Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGAs) within the commune of Treiso in Barbaresco. While Treiso's most celebrated vineyard, Pajorè, has achieved significant recognition among négociants and collectors, Marcarini remains among the quieter designations within this historically significant commune. Treiso itself, formerly part of the Barbaresco commune before achieving independent status, contributes substantially to the Barbaresco production zone, which has expanded from 484 hectares in the early 1990s to 733 hectares by 2019.

The official MGA system, introduced in 2007, sensibly retained almost all historically known vineyards rather than absorbing smaller sites into more famous names for commercial reasons. This preservation has allowed designations like Marcarini to maintain their individual identity, even if they have not yet achieved the same level of documentation or commercial recognition as Treiso's more prominent sites.

Terroir and Viticultural Context

Understanding Marcarini requires placing it within the broader geological and climatic framework of Treiso and Barbaresco. The soils of Barbaresco can be roughly divided into two principal types, with the calcareous clay of the Tortonian epoch being particularly significant. This formation, very similar to that found in the Barolo communes of La Morra and Barolo, results in wines with particular characteristics that distinguish them from those grown on different soil types.

The physical characteristics of Barbaresco's soils (particularly those governing water supply to the vine) represent the most important terroir factors beyond climate. Scientific consensus, following the groundbreaking work of Dr. Gérard Seguin at the University of Bordeaux, confirms that the best wines emerge from soils that are well-drained and furnish a steady but moderate water supply to the vines. This regulated water stress, combined with appropriate mineral nutrition, ensures controlled shoot tip growth, especially before veraison, and produces smaller berries less prone to congestion within the bunch.

Treiso's position within the Barbaresco production zone places its vineyards in the broader context of a denomination that extends across three main townships (Barbaresco, Treiso, and Neive) with a small portion in Alba. The commune's viticultural landscape reflects the complex interplay of elevation, aspect, and soil composition that characterizes the Langhe hills.

Wine Characteristics

Wines from Treiso, including those from Marcarini, participate in the broader stylistic identity of Barbaresco while expressing their specific site characteristics. Barbaresco has long been positioned as the more elegant, aromatic counterpart to Barolo, though this characterization can be misleading. While Barbaresco requires less aging before release than Barolo (26 months minimum compared to 38 months, with 50 months for Riserva versus 62 months) this has unfortunately led to the false assumption that Barbaresco is less age-worthy.

The reality is more nuanced. Barbaresco wines, regardless of their specific MGA, must achieve a minimum alcoholic strength of 12.5% and easily reach 13.5%. They are not lacking in the tannins and acidity that mark the Nebbiolo grape. Young Barbaresco, including wines from lesser-known sites like Marcarini, is by no means an inevitably pleasurable glass of wine (these are serious, structured wines requiring patience.

The classic aromatic profile of Barbaresco encompasses cherry, violets, and with age, iron, tar, and orange peel. These characteristics develop through the interaction of Nebbiolo with specific site conditions, modulated by winemaking choices that have evolved significantly over recent decades.

Winemaking Evolution and Contemporary Approaches

The approach to vinifying Nebbiolo from Barbaresco's various MGAs has undergone significant evolution. Traditional techniques favored prolonged maceration and extended cask aging. During the 1970s and 1980s, a shift occurred toward considerably shorter maceration periods and aging in French barriques, responding to modern preferences for rounder, fruitier wines. This modernist approach drew criticism from traditional winemakers who argued that French oak suppressed Nebbiolo's gentle perfume.

Today, an increasing number of Barbaresco producers are returning to longer maceration periods) often up to 40 days (and aging in large oak casks rather than barrique. This return to traditional methods reflects a renewed appreciation for Nebbiolo's inherent qualities and a desire to express site-specific characteristics more transparently. For wines from lesser-known MGAs like Marcarini, this evolution presents both opportunity and challenge: the opportunity to reveal distinctive terroir expression, and the challenge of achieving recognition in a market dominated by established names.

Historical Context and Recognition

The culture of single-vineyard designation in Barbaresco developed later than in Barolo and with less extensive historical documentation. Lorenzo Fantini's late 19th-century monograph on Piedmontese viticulture indicated very few "choice positions" in Barbaresco and none whatsoever in Neive. The first attempts to systematically list and rate the finest positions date from the 1960s with Luigi Veronelli and the 1970s with Renato Ratti.

Négociants' willingness to pay premium prices for grapes from certain vineyards gradually established consensus about which sites were considered best. In Treiso, Pajorè emerged as the commune's most celebrated vineyard, while other sites) including Marcarini (maintained quieter profiles. Some of Barbaresco's most famous vineyards achieved their prestige not through historical reputation but through the dedicated work and exacting standards of individual producers: San Lorenzo, Tildin, and Martinenga in the Barbaresco commune, and Santo Stefano in Neive are prime examples.

The introduction of the official MGA system in 2007 formalized these vineyard designations, preceding Barolo's similar system by three years. This formalization preserved smaller, less commercially prominent sites, preventing their absorption into more famous names and maintaining the region's viticultural diversity.

Conclusion

Marcarini represents the kind of MGA that defines much of Barbaresco's actual production) sites that may lack extensive historical documentation or contemporary celebrity but contribute to the denomination's diversity and complexity. As the Barbaresco zone continues to evolve, with producers increasingly focused on transparent terroir expression and traditional winemaking methods, such lesser-known sites may gradually reveal their distinctive qualities to a wider audience. For now, Marcarini remains among Treiso's quieter voices, awaiting deeper exploration and documentation by producers and writers committed to understanding Barbaresco's full viticultural landscape.